The Grand Bazaar is the mother of all shopping districts, a 550-year-old warren of more than 3,600 shops and 60 streets. It’s a must-see for visitors but can also be a nightmare: lots of dross, rapacious salesmen and the hassles of bargaining. Local entrepreneurs have recently set up shop alongside some worthwhile stalwarts, creating relaxed spaces with quality merchandise that are drawing even Turks to the old town. Most of these are in the bazaar’s central area around Fes Cafe.
Abdulla: Metin Tosun’s shop sells traditional pestemal bath towels and soaps (1) as well as mohair throws and bedding. Halicilar Caddesi 58/60; 011-90-212-526-3070; www.abdulla.com.
Sevan Bicakci: On a street just outside the bazaar, this atelier showcases one-of-a-kind jewelry (2). Molla Fenari Mahallesi, Gazi Sinanpasa Sokak, Kutlu Han 14/3; 011-90-212-520-4516; www.sevanbicakci.com.
Sivasli Istanbul Yazmacisi: Turkish and international designers stop at this fabric shop for traditional textiles (3). Yaglikcilar Sokak 57; 011-90-212-526-7748.
Lale Sterling: Well known to Istanbul’s elite, this firm creates original silver pieces (4) and sells antiques and reproductions. Kapalicarsi Cevahir Bedestan 260; 011-90-212-522-4600; www.turkishsilver.com.
Adnan & Hasan: This bazaar fixture’s low-pressure salesmanship and superb selection of carpets (5) make it a top shop for aficionados. Halicilar Caddesi 89 and 90/92; 011-90-212-527-9887; www.adnanandhasan.com.
Deli Kizin Yeri: The American Linda Caldwell carries Turkish-inspired items (6) like wooden tulip bookends and strings of traditional needle lace. She also has a children’s shop a few doors away. Halicilar Caddesi 53; 011-90-212-526-1251; www.delikiz.com.
Ethnicon and Dhoku: Mehmet Gureli’s two stores sell reinvented kilims: repurposed patchwork rugs at EthniCon and geometric styles by top designers at Dhoku. Kapalicarsi Takkeciler Sokak 45/47, 49/51 and 58/60; 011-90-212-527-6841; www.ethnicon.com and www.dhoku.com.
Fab Four
Designers on the fashion vanguard.
Atil Kutoglu: This designer, who shows his collection in New York, turns Ottoman shapes and Turkish fabrics into slinky little numbers. Find his pieces at Beymen stores in Nisantasi (Abdi Ipekci Caddesi, 23/1; 011-90-212-343-0404) and Akmerkez (Nispetiye Caddesi, Etile; 011-90-212-282-0380).
Umit Unal: He’s often compared to Japanese designers for his quirky, conceptual clothes. This season’s collection is a fantasy of silk and satin pieces inspired by the journey of Jason and the Argonauts. Asmali Mescit Mahallesi Ensiz Sokak 3 Tunel, Beyoglu; 011-90-212-245-7886.
Arzu Kaprol: She sets herself apart from the crowd by giving classics a twist: clean-cut trousers paired with a concertina-pleated shirt, the lining of a suit jacket hand-painted with tulips. Abdi Ipekci Caddesi 34, Nisantasi; 011-90-212-225-0129.
Ottoman Empire: This hip T-shirt brand plays with Turkish history — one shirt displays a Jannissary soldier with the slogan “The Empire Strikes Back,” another the words “Terrible Turk” — for its limited-edition line. Sakayik Sokak 59/1, Tesvikiye; 011-90-212-296-5619.
